School Visit

Children Lining Up For Introductions

In an effort to get out of the city and see a bit more of Nigeria, the team ventured to Minna, the capital of Niger State.  We left Abuja before the sun was up in order to avoid the impending street closures needed for mandatory street cleaning.  The trip lasted about three hours and it took us by Zuma Rock, small villages, booming market places, and the picturesque countryside.  Our ultimate destination was school for the deaf and blind.  The children who attend this school also live there year round.

Upon our arrival, we met the principal and director of the school as well as took a brief look at the exterior of the school.  It was pretty basic.  There two long barrack style rooms, one for the girls and one for the boys.  Lined up were rows of bunk beds.   Each bed had a mosquito net, which is quite important to prevent malaria.  Windows to the dorms were open to welcome the breeze, as there is no air conditioning, heat, or running water for the bathroom.  A few of us brave ladies visited the bathrooms, but believe me, it was out of necessity not curiosity.  We were able to see the classrooms which consisted of wooden benches and desks.

Typical Classroom

The children were delighted to meet us.  They were eager to know where we had come from and why we were visiting.  One little boy immediately made friends with Kim, as he took her hand as she walked.  The teachers asked the older students to help gather the little ones and to ensure they put on their school uniforms.  Then they all lined up in front of the main building.  The principal addressed them to introduce us as well as give a very motivational speech.  He stressed the importance of their studies and education and told them they can achieve anything they aspire to do, that their physical disabilities would not prevent them from realizing their dreams.

Ability in Disability Play

Each member of our team addressed the students, stating our name and what country we were from.  The students were especially fascinated with the teammates from India.  In preparation for our visit, many of us brought pencils, candies, and games for the children.  We passed out the goodies and Kim and Glyn played soccer with them.  A few of the older students put on a play for us, titled “There is Ability in Disability” and then some others did a dance number.  However, the children were most excited in having their picture taken.  They wanted group shots and individual shots which each of us.  They were so excited to be on camera.

Demonstrating Dance Moves

Before we left each of us donated one day of our per diem (about $45) to the school to be used to purchase supplies as needed.  While we have no way of actually knowing how the money will be spent, we hope it will go to improving the lives of these children.

Snap Shots With Some of The Students

More Snap Shots With Some of The Students

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Coffee

While all very different places, what do Barcelona, Beijing, Madrid, Moscow, Paris, Prague, Rome, and Riga all have in common?  One can order a brewed cup of coffee almost anywhere in these cities.  I would even venture to say that they all have their own unique coffee culture whereby tourist and citizens alike are able to find a cozy street front cafe to meet friends, relax, or perhaps read a book.  One can order a cappuccino, an espresso, or a plain ol' Americano to get their daily dose of caffeine.  Not so in Abuja....

While "coffee" is is readily available in here, it is not of the brewed variety.  Those Kenya beans that Starbucks sells have not quite made it to Nigeria.  Instead, there is instant Nescafe single serve packets.  They are usually accompanied by a single serving of evaporated mile and a sugar cube.  It doesn't matter if you are at a hotel, in the office, or at a restaurant, instant coffee is the only choice.

So imagine my surprise when Kate and I went to Lagos over the weekend and went to a coffee shop!  We had brewed coffee and a carrot muffin for breakfast on Saturday.  It was so tasty we ordered a second.  On Sunday we were treated again to the good stuff.  While Abuja does not need a Starbucks or even a McDonalds to invade the restaurant scene, one could make a killing on selling Krups Single Serve Machine, French Presses, or the old school drip or percolating coffee makers!

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Guara Falls—The Great Falls of Nigeria

In between Minna and Abuja, there is a State Park called Guara Falls.  On the way back from Niger State, the team took a detour from the highway to check them out.  We were pleasantly surprised to see a newly paved road--much nicer than the highway I might add, but a little discouraged when a group of men under an umbrella approached our van and asked for 500 Naira each to enter.  As we did not know what to expect or if it was customary to pay such fees, we were a bit skeptical.  However, we reasoned that we pay to enter parks and attractions at home, why should it be any different in Nigeria?  After paying the fee, one of the men hopped in our van, apparently our tour guide.

We continued down the newly paved road and parked when it ended.  There was a nice pavilion where you could have picnic and a paved path to view the falls.  The view was worth the 500 Naira.  The State did a nice job of creating a great overlook whereby visitors could take pictures.  I took a couple of snap shots and then headed back towards the pavilion.  That is when our guide told us that he was there to lead us down to the bottom of the falls.  We took him up on his offer and headed down the path.

 

There were stone stairs leading down to the river bed.  Once we descended, we climbed on large rocks so that we could get a good view of the falls.  The best way I can describe the hike and the landscape, is to compare it to the Billy Goat Trail in Great Falls.  From the bottom, the falls were quite impressive.  After taking in the scenery and relaxing for a bit, we hiked back to the top and headed back.

Guara Falls could definitely be a tourist attraction for those who visit Abuja.  Just make sure to pack a lunch and be careful not to drink too much water…as there are no restrooms

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Faces of Nigeria

One of the most beautiful things in Nigeria is its people.  They are polite, kind, genuine, proud and hardworking.  Each morning they acknowledge you, thoroughly interested in asking about your night.  Whenever you arrive at a store, the hotel desk, or even a taxi, they greet you with a sense of formality and are eager to converse.  They openly answer questions about mundane life in Nigeria such as food, landmarks, local traditions and customs.

This a land of opportunity for any entrepreneur.  New business are sprouting up like weeds.  For example, dry cleaners are popping up in the city to meet the growing demand of business people, food vendors cater the growing population, and stores such Sahad Market draw enormous crowds due to its variety of products.

As a foreigner in a big city, you do not feel threatened or uncomfortable.  You do not see beggars in the street and are not hounded for donations or to make purchases.  There are no cat calls when passing construction sites or unwanted eyes following you as you walk down the street.

Children are well behaved.  Even the littlest ones make it though church with not so much as a peep.  They are cheerful and always smiling. Their eyes are bright with wonder

While Nigeria still has a way to go in terms of development, one thing is sure, its people are determined.

 #IBMCSC Nigeria

Where Does Your Chicken Come From?

Glyn told the team about a conversation he had with a local Nigerian woman while at the office last week.  The conversation sparked from Glyn’s observation of free roaming chickens throughout the city.  He asked if these hens and rooster were the source of the roasted foul sold by the street food vendors. The woman replied yes and then asked Glyn where he obtained his chicken, to which he made a joke by stating “from the grocery store."  The woman replied “I feel sorry for you!”

This weekend the team saw first hand where chickens come from in Nigeria.  On the way back from our trip to Niger state, our driver stopped at a local market to purchase chicken and yams.  From the bus, I watched him negotiate with various chicken vendors to pick the best rooster and negotiate a price.  One should note, our driver was shopping for live chicken, not the prepackaged Perdue chicken we buy from Safeway.   For about $10 he purchased a fine looking rooster.

So one may ask, how did our driver get a live rooster back to Abjua?  Easy, he put it in the back of the van.  Lucky for us, it was a separate compartment from our seats, but we still heard it rustling around, as we drove back to the city….  Glyn, as well as the rest of the team, now know exactly where chickens come from.

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It Is Not The Destination, But The Journey

Monolith On The Way To Niger State

This weekend the team was able to get out f the city on a couple of day trips. While both days started early, waking up to see the sunrise was well worth it.

On Saturday, we took a trip west to Niger State.  As we left the Abuja the contrast between the city and the county became clear. As we passed by many small villages and markets, we were afforded a glimpse into the every day life.  The further west we went, the more the buildings and construction gave way to green vegetation including mango, palm, and banana trees. 

Rural Life On The Way To Niger State

We saw women carrying goods on their heads and babies on their backs, men working the fields, and shepherds herding goats and cows.  We passed by markets with fresh fruit, yams, and live chickens.  We spotted traditional Igbo mud huts, primary schools, churches and mosques.  We passed by a huge monolith and contemplated how something to large seems to appear out of no where.  As we drove, I was amazed at how green everything was.  As Nigeria is in a tropical client, located near the equator, it is almost like a jungle.  Our destination was a school for the deaf and the blind.  On our way back to the city, we stopped at Gurara State Park to visit the waterfall.

Oral Polio Vaccination Program

On Sunday we headed to Nasarawa state to participate and observe in an oral polio vaccination program.  Upon exiting the city limit, we began to see the signs of rural life.  The main streets and junctions were bustling with people heading to and from both church and markets.  Upon our arrival, we visited local Secretariat and met the director of the local public health division.  We learned about the program, its successes, and some of the challenges.  We then visited a local palace of tribal elders and were received in their great room.  Once introductions and a warm welcome from our hosts were complete, we broke into smaller teams to go to various churches participate in the vaccination efforts.

While our destinations were ultimately the school and polio vaccination program, the journey was equally enlightening.  It provided unique insight into life outside of the city that i tried to grasp not only in my mind, but with my camera.

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An Evening with Ola at JB’s Bar and Grill

Sunset at JB's

Happy Hour at JB’s.  What a better way to end the day then with good friends, red wine, and a beautiful sunset?  Anick, Iti, Brajesh, Kim and I met our IBM security contact, Ola,  for drinks after work.  He is based in Lagos, but had been working in Abuja for a couple of days.  He arranged for the team to meet this evening at a local watering hole.

We met up thinking we would get a couple of drinks and then head home, but we got way more than expected.  The owner accompanied us at our table and was an excellent host.  He brought a tray full of appetizers to share.  He even went out of his way to accommodate the vegetarian of the group.  As the sun set, the bug lamp was illuminated, and the lizards came out to feast.

We discussed the differences between Lagos and Abuja, the craziness of driving in the city, and other options for Abuja entertainment. It was a great evening.

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Electricity, Internet, and Telecommunications (or lack there of)

In developed countries, electricity and internet are considered basic necessities.  Sure, one can go camping for the weekend and “rough it,” but in general, there is relatively easy access to internet and reliable, uninterrupted power.  While the at times the connection may be slow, there is internet at home, at the office, and on the go via smart phones or mobile hot spots.  When we do find ourselves unexpectedly ‘disconnected,’ frustrations tend to escalate quickly.

In Abjua, the capital of Nigeria, growth is everywhere.  The skyline is dotted with cranes and there are on-going construction projects every which way you look.  If you look closely at some ‘palm trees’ you will notice they are not trees at all, but cleverly crafted cell phone towers. With this growth, one would expect to find sound infrastructure, which is surprisingly absent.

Take telephones for example.  There is little to no landline service.  Most homes and business do not use landlines.  For instance, my client and hotel both have telephones in each room / office.  However, these phones are not connected to an outside line, rather they function as an intercom system within the building.  This however, is not too surprising, as landlines are becoming a technology of the past.  Even in the states, land lines are declining while mobile phones are on the rise.  With the abundance of cell phone towers and the relatively cheap operating costs, one would think that service (at least in the city) would be quite good.  This is definitely a wrong assumption.  Verizon’s “can you hear me now” campaign would not be very successful here.  In fact, my client has three cell phones (on for each network) so that she can be reached by phone.

Internet is another slow comer to Abuja.  While the city is leaps and bounds ahead of the rural areas, there is a lot of room for improvement.  Websites are not yet common place and are often very basic in design and content.  Most Wi-Fi is provided via satellite and is plagued by slow connection speeds.  Additionally, it is often intermittent due to inclement weather and power outages….yet people still find a way to update their Facebook status.

Power is at the heart of the issue.  If you do not have consistent, uninterrupted power, how do you expect businesses to run, traffic signals to function, machinery to operate?  They don’t.  In Abuja large intersections may be manned by a traffic warden, but not all of the time.  At work, unless there is a back up generator, you operate in the dark, which leads to most processed being done manually—e.g.,  pushing paper.  No electricity also means no air-conditioning in the summer, no power to run office equipment, no IT in the classrooms.  To help ease the power problem, electricity is shifted to the business district during the day and to residences at night.  As such, we know we will not be working any late nights, as the business day must end by 5:30, as the light are soon to go off…

In Abuja the lack of stable electricity and telecommunications couldn’t be more clear.  Most cell phones double as a flashlight.

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Fingers, Fork, or Chopsticks?

When it comes to food in Abuja, there are four main options:  Continental, African, Chinese, and Indian.

Continental, aka food for foreigners, is surprisingly easy to find outside of the Hilton.  Most grocery stores sell numerous western brands.  So far, I have seen Uncle Ben’s Rice, Corn Flakes, Oreos, and Twix to name a few.  Additionally, restaurants feature many options from hamburgers and fries to pizza and pasta.  While continental foods are easy to come by, you will not find any western fast food.  That is, fine establishments such as McDonalds, KFC, and Pizza Hut have yet to début in Abjua.  Never fear though, one can still get fast food at the Chicken Republic, the largest growing chicken franchise in West Africa.

African is served in a variety of venues.  If you are brave (or just polite to your client) there is street food.  General consensus of the team is that the random chickens and hens that roam the streets will end up on someone’s plate…just a matter of time.  However, there are also a variety of pepper soups, yam concoctions, and rice dishes served.  If not eating street fare, there are numerous ‘African Kitchens’ which sell a assortment of African specialties, including an array of grilled and fried meats (lamb, goat, beef, chicken, bush and organ meat) served with a variety of sauces, rice dishes, soups and vegetables.  Most dishes are very spicy, even by Indian, Thai, and Mexican spice indexes.

Chinese is a very popular cuisine in the city.  However, the team has determined that Chinese food in Abuja is not the same as Chinese food served in the States, India, or China.  While the menu items are both tasty and familiar to all, the preparation is vastly different.  I questioned my client on whether the cooks were Chinese or Nigerian.  She said she couldn’t say with certainty, but most Chinese in Nigeria work in the construction industry vice the food industry.  One thing is for sure, Chinese portions are large no matter the county.

Indian food in prevalent and mighty tasty in Abuja.  It has proven to be a staple for the team, being that Spicy Food Restaurant is by far the best resultant in walking distance.  Unfortunately for us, Spicy Food is closed on Mondays.  Indian food is one of the few cuisines that have truly vegetarian options and numerous choices to boot.  Even the team members from India give the food two thumbs up.

Our team travels in groups, often as a whole (yes all 13 of us).  As such, meals have been great opportunities to explore the local flavors, share our native cuisines, and learn about traditions from our various motherlands.  Therefore, when eating Nigeria, keep your fork handy for Continental and African cuisines, put your chopsticks together for Chinese, and feel free to use your fingers when eating with naan with curry.

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Sunday is Church Day

Stained Glass in the National Church

Daisy, our client, and her husband Jackson invited Iti, Anick, and I to join them in Sunday services in their church.  They picked us up at the hotel and we drove about twenty minutes outside of the city.  On the way there, we learned that Jackson was actually the Pastor.  He explained that each time the church population nears 100 parishioners, some members break off, a new Pastor is assigned, and the new congregation begins meeting in another location.  This way there is no overcrowding of the church.  Also, this makes for a church on every other block….no excuses for not attending!

The church service lasted for about three hours.  There was a band - complete with drums, electric guitars, and a keyboard – three microphones for the back-up singers, and a lead singer with a cordless microphone.  The service started with many songs and dancing and was followed by various verse readings and the sermon. In honor of Father’s Day, today’s lesson was about what it meant to be a Father.  Jackson elaborated on the role and responsibilities being a good father and what his male congregation members must do.  After the sermon, there was a dedication of the new baby, which is equivalent to a baptism.  Instead of sprinkling holy water on her head, the baby was carried up the aisle followed by the friends and family of her parents.  Once at the front of the church, she was handed to the minister’s wife for a blessing.  The congregation collected money for the new parents and sang a song in celebration of its newest church member.

Following the service, we drove around Abuja.  From a distance, we are able to take pictures of the National Mosque.  We then went to the National Church.  We ask the guards if we could go inside and they agreed to let us in.  The National Church is non-denominational and is mostly used for large celebrations and major events.  It is not used on a day-to-day basis.  Inside they had some beautiful stained-glass windows, a large pipe organ, and a rotating pulpit.  The guards graciously turned on the rotation pulpit and Jackson demonstrated by reciting the I Have a Dream Speech.

National Mosque

National Church

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Saturday in Abuja

The plan was to visit the Polio Vaccine Storage facility on Saturday morning, but was canceled late Friday night.  Unfortunately it also canceled our transportation for the day.  Therefore, we walked to our local Indian Restaurant for a late lunch while Lawrence arranged for alternative transportation.  It is simply amazing how a local Nigerian can arrange for a cab for less than $3 but for the us to do it ourselves we are expected to pay more around the $8 range.

Thanks to Lawrence, we visited a very nice super market to stock up on staples and then went to the local arts and crafts market.  There we were able to see some local Nigerian handy-crafts.  Bargaining is a must, but we learned it is a fine tuned skill that many of us still need to master.  However, it was neat to see the hand carved wood masks and statues, intricate bead work, and numerous leather goods available.  We purchased our first souvenirs and will surly be back for more.

Clay Pot at the Arts & Craft Centre

Brick Huts Where Vendors Sell Goods at the Arts & Craft Centre

We returned to our hotel  in the early evening and decided to have a "house party."  Kate texted the team to meet us in our common area for snacks and drinks.  Everyone brought something to share and we enjoyed exchanging stories from home as well as our Nigerian experiences thus far.

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Friday Night Entertainment

What do you do in Abuja after finishing the work week?  Head to Blake’s.  Well actually you go home, eat dinner, get some rest and then go to Blake’s, as it doesn’t open until 9pm and the party doesn’t get started until after 11pm.  Lawrence and Lawrence graciously arranged transportation and accompanied us to our first social outing.

Blake’s is an outdoor restaurant / bar with many brightly colored blinking lights and live music.  It happens to be relatively close to our hotel.  We got there early and saw some of the opening acts.  There was everything from a comedy skit to a Michael Jackson impersonator.  It reminded me of a high school talent show.  We originally thought that we were going to hear local Nigerian music, however the main act started with pop, hip hop, and rap…even playing Summer of ’69 by Bryan Adams.  When the band started playing there were a couple of singers and a few guys playing instruments.  As the songs continued, more and more people joined the stage.  There were back-up dancers, more back-up dances, street performers, people from the audience….there came a point where I didn’t think anyone else could fit.

Drinks were sold by the bottle…so needless to say, no wine for me.  However, Kate and Ke Xing shared their beer with me.  While I am not normally a beer drinker, I thought the local Star beer wasn’t bad.  We left early by Blake standards, but we have an early morning tomorrow.  We are going to visit the cold storage unit outside of the city which houses the polio vaccines. 

Live Music and Dancers at Blake's

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Blast in Abuja

Today there was a bomb blast at the Police Headquarters in Abuja.  Fortunately, our CSC team was not impacted by the events.  However, it did leave us with heavy hearts in learning about the loss of life and destruction it caused.  It was a sad reminder of the political and religious tensions that are currently affecting not only Nigeria, but many countries around the world.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-13795754

http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-06-16/nigerian-police-headquarters-in-abuja-hit-by-explosion-1-.html

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Happy Birthday IBM

IBM is celebrating its centennial today.  It is amazing to be a part of a company that has had such a positive impact in business, innovation, and society.  Over the past six months, IBM has been encouraging its employees to celebrate with a ‘day of service.’  The Nigerian IBM office in Lagos, celebrated by providing 100 days of mentoring to local business, culminating today.  For the CSC team, our day of service will come next weekend when we join a local Non-Governmental Organization to go house to house providing oral polio vaccinations to children under five.  We are excited for the opportunity to visit new areas in and around the city, interact with the local population, and provide a much needed service.

Congratulations IBM.  Here’s to another 100 years.

http://news.blogs.cnn.com/2011/06/16/ibm-celebrates-100th-birthday/?hpt=hp_c1

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Finalizing Statement of Work

Anick, Iti, and I began to finalize our revised statement of work today.  We are working with our client (The National Electricity Regulatory Commission - NERC) to prioritize tasks and set an action plan for the next 3.5 weeks.  It looks like we will be focusing on delivering a project management training class and process improvement on their licensing process.  Today we focused on reviewing existing documentation, drafting interview questions, and creating a task plan and schedule.  We hope to be able to visit some of the Regulatory Commission's current applicants and  licensees as a part of our data gathering efforts

Five years ago, Nigeria decided to privatize its electric utilities.  They divided the government run electric provider into 17 separate businesses in an effort to create a competitive market place.  They are now granting licenses to private entities to allow them to join this competitive market.  Our work will aid the Regulatory Commission to better manage its transition milestones as well as provide insight to challenges faced by the NERC and applicants when working through the steps of obtaining a license to operate.

Today was not all work though, we did find a little time to play.  Daisy, our protocol officer took us to lunch on the North side of town.  This area is undergoing much construction and development as many elaborate homes and businesses are being built.  After lunch, she took us on a brief tour, showing us where to find the local arts and crafts market, city museum, and a mall with a cinema.  We are hoping to be able to visit these places on our own.  After returning to our hotel, a few of us went out for a walk.  It was great to be able to explore the area around our hotel a bit more as we begin to settle in.

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Met the Client

We went to the client site for the full first day.  Our work day is from 8-5.  We have a driver that picks us up at the hotel and takes us to the client site.  Our office is two small rooms with a desk, copier, printer and internet.  The client has been very accommodating, ensuring we have proper facilities and amenities.  Apparently we have better facilities than some of the other teams.  Iti, Anick, and I are refining our statement of work and will most likely focus on Project Management Training and Process Improvement Tasks.

Our client provides us lunch.  Today we went on an adventure looking for food.  We stopped at a one sandwich shop and learned that they did not have food on the premises.  That is, they had a menu and you ordered food, but they would then go to the supermarket to buy the needed ingredients.  That turns the lunch hour into lunch hours.  Once we learned of the process, we headed to a Chinese place.  Chinese seems quite popular here and also has samosa on the menu.  This particular restaurant was full, so we drove to a third restaurant which had many local and foreign options (aka fast food).  I settled on Nigerian spicy beans and fried plantains.  I must admit, my favorite meal yet.  Moving forward, our client will pre-order food to save a bit of time.

After work today, the team went for happy hour at the Hilton....much different experience that the local culture we are seeing day in and day out.  The Hilton is definitely where most expats hang out, but surprisingly many Nigerians as well.  It was a very happening spot.  While an interesting experience at the piano bar, one we will probably not visit again.  We are working with our local contacts and client to arrange for other activities and transportation moving forward. Local concerts and movies are in the near future.

#IBMCSC Nigeria

Welcome to Abuja

My journey to Nigeria started Friday night.  At the airport I met up with Kate, a fellow CSC participant. After some mechanical difficulties, our flight finally departed and our adventure began.  We arrived in Frankfurt only to realize we had missed the one connection to Abuja for the day.  We re-booked though London and finally arrived early Sunday morning.  Lawrence greeted us at the airport and took us to our new home.  After some much needed rest, we met the rest of our CSC team, 13 in all, and took a brief city tour.  We were able to get a good feeling for the city, our work locations, and the neighborhood we will be living in for the next month.  We changed our money the "local" way and went to a fruit market.  In the evening, we met with our client for the first time.  Over some local Nigerian cuisine, we discussed our upcoming projects and how we could provide service in the coming weeks. Albeit exhausted, I am very excited to be here and to see what tomorrow brings.

#IBMCSC Nigeria